Friday, October 17, 2008

Hanoi the slow way


Tihe capital’s world famous cyclos are the best way to take n the city’s grandeur and grace. A unique pedicab tour costs about VND40,000 (US$2.5) per hour.


The cyclo, or xich lo in Vietnamese, is different from pedicabs in most other countries as the driver of the tricycle sits in back of the passengers.
Rickshaws, small cabs that men pulled on foot, first appeared in Hanoi in 1883. The rickshaws were originally a treat for the rich only. In 1939, French designers in Vietnam came up with the xich lo by reversing the passenger and driver.
Though also originally only for the rich locals and French colonialists, the cyclo’s popularity spread quickly and the vehicles were soon found all across the country. Poor mothers took them to and from the market and rich young couples romantically toured city streets and country roads.
But today, the tricycles are almost extinct in many cities. However, they are still used in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and several other commercial hubs.
Seeing Hanoi’s 36 Old Quarter streets on a cyclo allows visitors to peer inside the hustle and bustle of everyday life in the city.
See city life in all its forms, from an old couple selling fruit, woodwork or calligraphy in a century-old Chinese shop house, to a young CEO on his i-Phone stepping out of a Mercedes.
Rich businessmen mingle with poor war veterans sitting at street side rice, noodle and tea shops; young women in white ao dai (traditional tunics) ride their bikes past a group of farmers hauling produce to the city’s markets.
Or relax as the breeze cools you by the lake or on one of the capital’s many shady tree-lined boulevards.
Many cyclo drivers act as guides and are full of stories about Hanoi. The best guides can speak English or French and are encyclopedias of knowledge about history, Hanoi cuisine and all the country’s cultural nuances.


Reported by Phan Huy Tram

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